When it comes to skin goals, an even skin tone is often at the top of my patients’ wish-lists. But in order to achieve that, we’ve first got to analyse any areas of skin discolouration and understand what caused them. Is it hyperpigmentation caused by the sun? Are they age spots? Or is it hormonal melasma? If you’re unsure of the difference, I’m here to help.
Pigmentation: A common problem
Hyperpigmentation refers to any areas of the skin that appear darker in comparison to your natural skin colour. It can affect people of all skin types and can occur anywhere on the body. Plus, it can appear as dark brown, light tan, black, grey, pink or purple in colour – it all depends on your individual natural skin type.
Here comes the sun
Hyperpigmentation is not to be confused with freckles, which typically appear with the summer sun and gradually fade away. Instead, hyperpigmentation is a more long-term change to the skin.
Hyperpigmentation can be caused by sun exposure and results from the sun's UV rays increasing melanin production, which causes the light tan to brown patches to form. This kind of hyperpigmentation is most commonly found on the face, neck, chest, tops of the arms and back of the hands. For this reason, I tell every patient about the absolute necessity of wearing SPF everyday – even in Scotland.
Life after acne
Even if you’re vigilant about applying your sunscreen, there are other forms of hyperpigmentation that you could be affected by. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be pink, red or purple hues, is often seen in those who have suffered from acne in the past. This kind of hyperpigmentation is caused by the skin reacting to the inflammation of the acne by producing extra melanin, and this pigment can remain long after the active acne has been treated. Many patients come to me because they’re delighted to have their acne under control, but disappointed to still have the hyperpigmentation which for some can be a daily reminder of what they suffered.
Spot the signs of ageing
Age spots, also known as liver spots or solar lentigines, are small, flat, dark brown or blackish areas on the skin. They become much more common as you age and are the result of sun exposure. They can vary in size and usually appear on the face, backs of the hands, shoulders, and arms. Many patients come to me because of the ageing effect these spots can have on their appearance. (Even if they try to knock a few years off their appearance by moisturising religiously, they know those age spots can be a real giveaway.)
Melasma – a different matter
Aside from these examples of pigmentation, there is another reason why you could have patches of darker skin and that’s melasma. This is a hormone related condition and can occur with pregnancy, hormonal contraceptives or perimenopause. These, typically brown-grey, patches usually occur on the face and are often larger and more symmetrical than hyperpigmentation.
(Examples of 4 types of pigmentation shown clockwise)
Solutions for hyperpigmentation
Whether we’re treating pigmentation resulting from sun exposure, acne, or age spots, or melasma, I’ll always start your treatment plan with an in-depth consultation. Here, I’ll ask a series of questions relating to your skin, health and lifestyle, and I’ll also carry out an advanced skin analysis using our Observ520X machine. By capturing a sequence of detailed photos of the deeper layers of your skin, I can get a clear picture of the full extent of your pigmentation. I can then use this information to make tailored treatment and product recommendations to help minimise the appearance of your pigmentation.
Typically for melasma I would recommend microneedling with a bioactive serum and for age spots laser treatments which are generally more effective.
For hyperpigmentation a good starting point is a HydraFacial® with the ZO Brightalive Booster and home skincare which is what I am going to talk about next.
Lighten up with the HydraFacial® ZO Brightalive Booster
The HydraFacial® ZO Brightalive Booster is an effective solution for minimising the appearance of hyperpigmentation thanks to its targeted approach and powerful ingredients:
- Deep cleansing and exfoliation: The HydraFacial® removes dirt, oil and impurities from deep within your pores, plus the top layer of dead skin cells to allow deep penetration of the ZO Brightalive Booster.
- Powerful ingredients: The ZO Brightalive Booster contains a blend of powerful brightening agents that specifically target hyperpigmentation. It also contains antioxidant protection to defend against further skin damage, as well as anti-inflammatory ingredients to soothe the skin and reduce the likelihood of new dark patches forming.
It is important to support the treatment with high quality active skincare to continue skin rejuvenation in between treatments. Suitable products may include:
- DRVICTORIA™ Vitamin C serum which helps reduce the production of melanin and free radicals that cause the visible pigmentation.
- DRVICTORIA™ Illuminate serum which contains a skin brightening peptide to help reduce existing pigmentation and inflammation.
Don’t forget the SPF!
It is important to note that whilst the HydraFacial® ZO Brightalive can minimise the appearance of hyperpigmentation, it won’t necessarily remove all trace of the condition. That’s because the DNA damage to the deeper layers of your skin has been done. So for example, if you’re in your 60s and you’ve enjoyed countless summers sunbathing and now have obvious hyperpigmentation, this treatment won’t eradicate it completely. It will, however give you a radiant boost, a brighter complexion, and more even skin tone by comparison.
It is also important to be aware that any hyperpigmentation can come back if you don’t protect your skin with SPF. And that is why one of the key pieces of aftercare advice I give to every patient is to invest in good quality sun protection and wear it every day, whether it’s sunny or not. Modern SPFs do not have to be the thick white pasty creams of old. You can choose a daily moisturise with nourishing peptides and SPF like the DRVICTORIA™ SafeGuard.
Start your journey to a brighter, more even skin tone
Book an Observ skin analysis to review your pigmentation and discover the correct treatment and skincare choices for you. The skin analysis takes about 30 minutes and costs just £35 which is redeemable against any treatment course purchased.
Toni
Author's experience
Aesthetician Toni is an advance skin therapist qualified in laser, IPL, microneedling and HydraFacial® treatments who is trusted by her large and loyal clientele to help them achieve healthy, glowing, beautiful skin.
References and Resource Links:
- Harvard Health Publishing, Demystifying hyperpigmentation: Causes, types, and effective treatments, Fisher, 2024
- Medical News Today: What to know about hyperpigmentation, Sissons, 2023
- British Association of Dermatologist: Melasma, 2018
- Primary Care Dermatology Society: Hyperpigmentation - of the face and neck, 2023
